This
is a semi desert region in north Rajasthan and it is situated entirely
in the triangle between Delhi-Bikaner-Jaipur. Shekhawati is a region
and not just a town or fort; it takes its name after its ruler Rao
Shekha. Shekhawati means the garden of Shekha. The towns of Shekhawati
are eminent for their amazing painted havelis.
Such is the appeal of the havelis that this region is dubbed as "open
art gallery of Rajasthan". The plethora of painted Havelis in
rich artistic tradition makes it commendable and fascinating. Most
of the buildings are dated from 18th century to early 20th century.
The Shekhawati landscape is dotted with so many havelis that tracking
them is something like a treasure hunt. Various forms of fine art
adorn the walls and the ceilings of these structures, complimenting
the otherwise flat and barren land. The havelis are noted for their
frescos depicting mythological themes and that of huge animals.
Some later day frescos shows the arrival of the British and highlighting
steam locomotives and train doubtlessly for the benefit of those members
of the household who did not travel to distance places by train or
see this newly introduced mode of transport.
There
are also forts, minor castles, mosques, wells called baoris and chattris
to discover.
The Rajputs mostly depicted the themes of historical events, personages'
folk-heroes and the prominent war scenes, while the Marwaris concentrated
more on religious themes but with the passage of time the themes too
began to divert towards the modern views. At the decline of Mughal
Empire after the death of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in 1707 the descendants
of Rao Shekha encroached upon areas west of Aravali Range also.
The chieftains of the region retained nominal loyalty to Amber, who
in turn honoured them with the title of 'tazmi sardars'. It was probably
this exposure to the courts of Jaipur that encouraged these thakurs
initiate their great succession of fresco. By the beginning of the
nineteenth century British had established major ports at Calcutta
(now Kolkata) and Bombay (now Mumbai) that were able to handle larger
volumes of trade than ports in Gujarat.
Moreover with Jaipur reducing its levies the Shekhawati route was
almost abandoned by traders. However the Shekhawati merchants who
were seasoned businessmen migrated en masse to the more lucrative
centres of Calcutta and Bombay. Here they earned unparallel wealth
and send huge sums home, which were used for building havelis, social
welfare, wells, reservoirs, schools etc.
Places to see in Shekhawati
Nawalgarh:
Founded in the 18th Century by Nawal Singh, it has some of the finest
frescos i
n
the Shekhawati region. A huge fort with colourful bazaar and numerous
havelis with elaborate architecture makes it an interesting destination
for a 1day / 1 night stay. There are a few prominent havelis like
Anandilal Poddar Haveli, Aath Haveli, Hodh Raj Patodia Haveli etc.,
which are to be visited, and so are the two forts and the palace hotel
Roop Niwas that is a beautiful heritage property and is renovated
with modern facilities.
Dundlod:
This Thikana (destination) is in the heart of Shekhawati Region, founded
in 1750 and about 7 km from Nawalgarh the fort is a blend of the Rajput
and Mughal Art and architecture the Diwan- e- khas (Hall of private
Audience) has stained glass windows, find antiques and an impressive
library. The zenana quarters are on the 1st floor featuring exquisite
decors and furniture.
The fort is converted into a cosy and comfortable abode. The dress
code of the state and grand hospitality with the horse guards are
an attractive factor. The Goenka Haveli is worth a visit for the beautiful
frescos and the fine mirror work above the windows and features of
Florets and birds in the outer courtyard. There are better-preserved
paintings in few other havelis and chattris.
A peep into the village on a camel safari is rather interesting. A
fine breed of horses has been a passion with the family ancestors
and continues till this time by their descendent. These royal studs
are available for riding and horse safari. A 1 day and 1 night stay
over at the resort envelopes you with the nostalgia of their classic
life-style that is complimented by the formal hospitality and entertainment.
The thikana Kansamas (chefs) doles out with delicious cuisines for
the taste buds.
Mukungarh:
Built around a temple square, a few km from Navalgarh, Mukungarh has
a magnificent fort, which is now converted, into a resort hotel with
all modern amenities.
Mandawa:
Founded in the mid 18th century Manawa skyline today is dominated
by an imposing mirage like fort now a heritage hotel that is maintained
in the classic medieval theme with the modern luxuries. The painted
archway is painted with interesting forms of paintings of Lord Krishna
and his cowherds. The sprawling architecture houses a different theme
in different wings.
The spacious rooms are adorned by intricate interior wall paintings
and mirror work with open terrace that offers a panoramic view of
the whole town. The women folks of the Mandawa family who lived in
a royal style once used this floor. The ambiences of those years still
linger around the rooms.
The Mandawa family has a unique collection of their preserved paintings
and antiques that adorn the main huge hall in the centre of the castle,
originally the durbar hall and now an exotic lounge. The ceremonial
costumes of the family collection and the precious arms with handle
of jade and beautiful curios brought by the British as a gift for
the nobles are well placed like a showcase of a museum.
The hotel is well equipped with modern facilities in an ethnic set-up.
A night stay is an experience in itself with thematic evenings and
oriented and medieval cuisine. The warm hospitality is touching.
Fatehpur:
The
Muslim Nawabs established Fatehpur in 1451 and the Shekhawati Rajputs
took it over in the 18th century. The opulence of the local merchants
is so evident from the richly painted havelis of Poddars, Choudhuri
and the Ganeriwalas families. The town is also a good base to visit
nearby towns of Lakshmangarh and Mandawa.
Mahaveer Prasad Goenka haveli built is 1885 is believed to have some
of the best frescos in perfect match of colour and design. The haveli
maybe mostly locked and may take several visits to be able to see
it. Geori Shankar Haveli is a good example of mirrored mosaic ceiling.
Haveli Nadine is a haveli purchased by a French artist Nadine Le Prince.
It retains some good painting is shades predominantly in red and blue.
The artist is energetically restoring the painting and for the time
being visitors is not allowed.
The Choudaharia Haveli though in an extreme state of deteriorations
has a rare departure of an erotic painting. The Jagannath Singhania
Haveli has some fine paintings of Radha and Krishna and shows some
British men holding guns. The others havelis, which are notable are
Harkishan Das Saraogi Haveli and Vishnunath Keria Haveli.
Jhunjhunu:
Is the biggest town in the Shekhawati region and are the district
administrative head quarters for the region. It is located a 180 kms
from Jaipur and 245 kms from Delhi. The Khemkhani Nawabs founded the
town in the 15th century. The Rajput ruler Sardul Sigh took control
of the town by 1730 and the British raised and based of locals here
in 1830.
Pilani:
Once a small village is famous for being the hometown of the premier
business and industrial family the Birlas. The town is also for its
The Birla Institute of Technology & Science (BITS), Pilani is
an all-India Institute for higher education. Its engineering college
is reputed to be the top ten colleges in India.
Bissau:
Is another small town of fluctuating fortunes. Keshri Singh founded
the town. The town fell into anarchies when his grandson Shyam Singh
extorted huge sums of money from the local merchant.
Parasrampuria:
It a tiny village 20 kms southwest of Navalgarh. It boasts of some
the oldest and the best preserved Shekhavati paintings in the region.
The Shyamji Sharaf Haveli and 18th century haveli located near the
bus stand has well conserved paintings.












